Are you confident in your surf swimming skills?
4. Go with the waves
Never paddle to the channel or the rip, as it will most likely suck you back out. So just go for a medium set wave, body surf it for as long as you can. Don’t get to picky, it may take several waves to get to the shore. Be careful with big powerful whitewater, especially on a big day as it can push you down and tumble you around and again create panic and waste your energy to fight for the surface.
When doing your surf check ask yourself before you head into the waves… ‘if my leash breaks out the back, could I swim in safely and confidently?’ We all like to challenge ourselves and push our surfing ability to help improve but safety first. You could be putting yourself in danger and/or others who try to help you.